We found a fun empty peak with no one around and super clean California conditions. One of those glorious sessions in Santa Barbara.
This was a fun day.
http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/california-swell-story_64733/
Here’s a fun short film I directed of 10 inspirational kids in Santa Barbara. It took a month to make and a team effort. enjoy
Two images photographed two months apart while the river slowed at the end of summer. The River mouth Time lapse Album from January to August can be sen here: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.297233166958735.92279.227409287274457&type=1
Fall colors brightening the day. Time to strengthen the core and be ready for solid winter surf.
Zack jumped in and felt the love during his solo on the accordion. Berkeley Oct. 5th, 2010
Jack and Zee Avi meeting and jamming together for the first time. Zee and G Love were the opening bands each night for the west coast Oct. 2010 All At Once Tour. Jack hired my wife and I to help out the entire way from Vancouver to San Diego. Each nights photos were posted the next day. The organic food from each town, collaborations and recycling awareness were a treat to be a part of. And the music and sincerity made it an absolute stellar time.
http://jackjohnsonmusic.com/photos
This is a good cause I just worked on. Show support, don’t visit Sea World and send an email to the Netherlands Government, Thanks !
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zxZeO7IG4Y
Surf check dream time. Long lines, hollow sections, warm and sunny.
Thanks to the film crew at Framed for sharing my story.
http://www.framedshow.com/archives/2240
Pelicans riding the same waves we ride and offshore wind all along the coast.
The Fibonacci spiral, an unfolding and folding universal spinning wave.
One of the best things about being home is hanging with our dog. It’s amazing how much of his simple wisdom can be learned when I take the time to listen.
Thank You Alaska for another great trip. And what a pleasant privilege it is arriving home to a few fun waves and a new swell on the way.
Spent the day with Slater and Strider in Malibu and found a few empty peaks right before dark. Then Kelly left for Tahiti.
The birth place of film with a historical collection of the first Kodak cameras, libraries and living quarters of it’s founder George Eastman. Also currently on display, the Norman Rockwell: Behind the Camera exhibit showing his photographs used as reference to create the classic painting of American culture.
A day at the races with Mike McCarthy of Todd Pletcher Stables. With an abundant attention to detail and care for the crew and horses, they are a well run team. It was a pleasure to see it in action. Stop Shopping Maria, getting prepped and taking the lead, won by a large margin.
Taking just a few minutes to really relax rejuvenated while a boat wake found a nice corner. Canandaigua, NY
One of my favorite places in Los Angeles - The Farmers Market at Third and Fairfax. The Taschen Bookstore, now featuring Linda McCartney’s life in photographs. And Moishes, my uncles restaurant serving grandmas original recipes.
After a day in the classroom talking with Brooks Institute’s underwater students, we took a day trip to the Channel Islands. It felt great to get a couple dives in and float through the giant kelp forests.
Elijah and Camille. Family day at the ball park. Sunflower seeds and lemonade slushies.
Crystal Thornburg Homcy seemed to be having the most fun. I love the quiet symmetry of Ehukai underwater and the simple joy of tandem body boarding.
Dropped by and saw Ryan Lovelace yesterday at the shaping bay playing around with some carbon fiber flex strips that sound fast and fun.
The dunes of Cape Cod. The Bay side, and the Atlantic side. Just got back from a little vacation with some friends on the East Coast.
The calm and fury of wind in the sky just like the spinning waves we ride.
Lauren Yater and Kevin McCarthy lending a hand to TheraSurf sharing the stoke with kids at Malibu. http://www.therasurf.org/
Gotta love and respect the words of encouragement and waves of North Shore Oahu.
We took turns editing a trip to Chile. Dan Malloy found this one flying under everyone’s radar. The Patagonia ad for the Journal read “Make Your Choices Count”.
Nole Cossart and Chadd Konig acclimating to a 300 mile camping paddle journey from Santa Barbara to the Mexico Boarder. Nole holding a rail on a homemade Alaia. http://www.surfersjournal.com/pdf_article/spirits-land
YC on a boat trip with friends and family, casting into the wind and rushing tide on an uninhabited Tuamotu Atoll.
Far from the workshop, Fletcher Chouinard feeling the dream while scouting the Tuamotu Islands.
Hawaiian waves popping up onto the reef and dissolving into a serene puddle… a boy exploring and a dad observing.
A tropical horizon view and another wave wrapping around the corner of a reef pass to the interior lagoon of a Tuamotu Island.
The easy going lifestyle of California, peeling perfection with a critical edge. Joel Tudor, Malibu.
Derek Hynd feeling the high line glide while he calls it a “Continental Drift”. The airlines lost his boards for days so he added a new channel, sharpened up the rails and took the fins out of my 5’4” Bing twin fin. Frame grabs from this winter.
Shawn Stussy style at S/Double headquarters. Putting thoughts into action.
Jack J enjoying a few waves before sunset in the spirit of International Surfing Day June 20, 2011
Lakey Peterson’s genuine gratitude shows hope for the youth of today. We’ve been shooting a bunch lately. Here’s a couple frame grabs from the Nike 6.0 film, Leave A Message.
Kelly enjoying a sunny day at the beach. It’s an inspiration how he connects people and brings awareness and support to important social and environmental causes. http://www.kellyslaterfoundation.org/
Honolua Bay - How is it that the only turtles on the island with tumors growing on their backs are showing up in a preserve… locals say it’s from pesticide runoff.
North Shore Oahu, Kimi is comfortable free diving the outer ledge at 60 ft on a single breath hold for 2 min. while hunting bigger fish. Here we are 20 ft deep exploring second reef Pipeline.
What a pleasure being around such creative individuals. Here’s T. Adler at the S/Double studio with his wheels turning.
Shawn’s shaping again !! This 5’6” turned a small fun day into a 3 hour expression experiment going fast, holding a rail and releasing.
As a kid, 3rd point Malibu is where I leaned into my first real bottom turn and felt the flying sensation !
http://sports.espn.go.com/action/surfing/news/story?id=6634504
4 weeks ago I was part of a film crew who went far into the Alaskan wilderness to document a small group of village kids before they embarked on a first time field trip to the lower 48 states.The inspiration was their school teacher who was looking for ways to motivate her students to strive academically, and connect with the world outside their 40 person village living a subsistence lifestyle.
They had low comprehension test scores and needed to travel and experience other things. We also followed them throughout Santa Barbara and by the end of their two week trip to California, all of the kids became much more expressive and had many to things to say. The experience will be turned in to a 30 minute TV special and later into a film festival documentary. For more details, here’s the blog: http://akdreamsfar.blogspot.com/
Flying fast and staying warm:
http://matuse.com/news/news/matuse-family-branden-aroyan/
Cyrus at it again… another genius act of simplicity:
http://www.korduroy.tv/2011/3d-rincon
Zach Brown put together this submission for Innersection which includes some of our footage from Panama. Here’s the link to cast your vote: http://innersection.tv/video/213
Been traveling lately… June 2nd, headed to the jungles of Panama for 10 days and filmed with Kilian Garland for Intersection. Empty left points, peaky beach break and 83 degree water temp by day and mosquito nets and flashlights by night. Nico Von Rupp and Jose Cabrera were also ripping for a European article in Surfer Rule.
Just before returning home, Slater and Val coordinated a personal trip for us to meet up and shoot more video in Costa Rica for another week. So with a pumping new swell about to arrive I headed solo up the coast. Dreamlike, we found hollow barrels and fresh local food. Possibilities of an Intersection submission will reveal the goods. Val shot this Kelly sequence of “How To Surf” appearing in Surfer Mags next issue.
It was fun
A flowing free collection of thoughts.
http://www.korduroy.tv/2010/filmmaker-friday-branden-aroyan
Here’s a short video of Joel getting his glide on at Rincon. Tomorrow May 22, Matuse Wetsuit Launch Party @ EVER in Montecito 5-9pm. 20% of sales benefits S.B. Chapter of Surfrider Foundation. http://matuse.com/news/video-clips/team/joel-tudor-at-rincon/
Mothers Day weekend, Malibu legend Jimmy Gamboa and his team of volunteers treated five special needs kids to a once-in-a-lifetime experience through his TheraSURF organization. Riding tandem, we took several First Point set waves, trimming and hooting all across the inside, stepping off onto the sand to the cheers (and tears) of families, friends, and SYBO surfers. TheraSURF is dedicated to healing kids with special needs by taking them in the ocean to surf. Thanks to M.S.A for hosting and giving 40 minutes before the finals of the Surf Yer Brains Out grom contest and Allen Sarlo, Kevin McCarthy, and Lauren Yater for taking them out.
Here’s a little film for the Sacred Craft gathering in Ventura this year. There were no prizes, but it was an honor to be included. It is the first film I shot and edited to be publicly displayed on the web. It became one of the Audience 5 favorite original shorts. Thanks to Cyrus Sutton for instigating. http://vimeo.com/11272077
It was great being there in the presence of so many legendary craftsmen. Everyone was harvesting the stoke. And Wayne was honored beyond belief. After weeks of preparation Wayne’s planer was filed down so close it sent out ribbons of foam. Low Tide Rising was set up in a booth outside and had a great turnout as well. SurferMag.com slide show click here: http://www.surfermag.com/photos/flash/when_the_dust_settles_sacred_craft/
Everyday is earth day. Thank goodness for gratitude. Keep it positive.
Surfer Magazine slide show from the Ventura Premier. It’s a great film with major thanks to Zach. It was a great turnout with heaps friends and support. More images: http://surfermag.com/photos/flash/union_express_premiere_ventura_040910/
Riding something different again. This time it’s a 5’7” stringerless foam core wrapped in Paulownia wood round tail quad from Timberline. Major thanks to Rafael for setting it up. The first test run felt really fast, responsive and fun. http://www.timberlinesurf.com
Surfline Home Page Feature
An afternoon session the day Kelly left for Oz to start the tour, 2010. He kept trading off boards one or two waves at a time. http://www.surfline.com/video/featured-clips/quiver-testing-at-rincon_41336
Brushfire Records in Los Angeles, California
Jack nestled into the recording studio putting together new songs. It was amazing how many subtle adjustments he made. http://www.brushfirerecords.com/
Santa Barbara, California
Jimmy “one of the most local, non-locals out there”. Flying on a single fin hull. Most of the times I go to sushi is with Jimmy after scoring good surf. This was one of those times.
Slide Magazine Current Issue #15 pages 132 & 133
Staying with Joel on the North Shore for a few weeks sure was surreal. A year later this image became part of the Pipeline tee shirt. http://www.lowtiderising.com/index.php/store/men/shortsleeve